Alaskan Idyll, Days 34-36 Fairbanks

We like Fairbanks. It is growing, but still retains somewhat of a small town America feel. It’s also a university town (University of Alaska Fairbanks), which influences the feel of the place. On the way into town, we snapped the following photo, showing suburban Fairbanks, crowned by a beautiful fair weather cloudbank.

The Parks Highway Rolls Through Beautiful Suburban Fairbanks

Our first stop in Fairbanks was the old reliable, Fred Meyers, for gasoline and some groceries. This store, on the west end of town, used to be “the” big box store in Fairbanks. It now has been superseded by a much larger new Fred Meyers store on the other end of town, next to the new Wal-mart supercenter, the Lowes, the Home Depot, and the Circuit City. However, the old store is handy to the campground, and we like it.

Our campground in Fairbanks, River’s Edge, is one we have stayed at on several previous trips, and we like it too. It is a pretty and very well managed place located on the banks of the Chena River.

Fairbanks benefits from more than one base of economic support. Government is big here, with the university and the military. There also is some residual support from the old pipeline industry, and a new pipeline boom is in the offing, with the recently approved Denali Natural Gas Pipeline. Gold mining is also coming back, with the recent resurgence in the price of gold. Last time we were in Fairbanks, in 2005, the town was all in an uproar over the closure of Eielson Air Force Base, and the consequent economic impact. There’s less doom and gloom this trip.

The evening of our arrival we were bussed to Pioneer Park (formerly Alaskaland), where we were treated to a very tasty meal at the salmonbake, followed by a good show at the Palace Theater. Many of the buildings in Pioneer Park are from the original town, moved to the park to preserve them as the downtown ares developed and modernized

The salmonbake included three kinds of fish (salmon, cod, and halibut), plus roast beef for the non-fish eaters. The show featured four fairly talented players and a pianist who presented a succession of vaudeville style skits, all focused on some aspect of Fairbanks history and life. We’ve seen this show before, and enjoyed seeing it again.

Fairbanks Pioneer Park Salmonbake

Three Hungry Tourists

The Palace Theater in Fairbanks Pioneer Park

Theater Players “dramatize” Fairbanks Culture

The morning after our arrival we piled on a bus for a city tour, followed by a visit to the El Dorado Gold mine. The tour took us past an old Episcopalian Church, then to the downtown visitor’s center, on the Chena River at the core of old Fairbanks. The church is the oldest building in Fairbanks. The front half was destroyed by fire, but has been rebuilt. The rear half (the sanctuary) is original. Included in rebuilt part are several interesting stained glass windows depicting various aspects of Alaskan life. At the visitor’s center we saw more beautiful Alaskan flowers, and another interesting fence, featuring bird silhouettes.

Historic Episcopalian Church in Downtown Fairbanks

More Beautiful Flowere, Courtesy of the Midnite Sun

More Fence Art at the Fairbanks Visitor’s Center

The balance of our morning was spent at the El Dorado Gold Mine. Originally a working gold mine, this venue now mines the tourist pockets with demonstrations of historic mining techniques. The tour begins with a reproduction antique train ride through a reproduction mine tunnel, where the basics of rock mining were explained. We then rode past various pieces of antique mining machinery, arriving at a massive gift shop adjacent to a mining demonstration. The big attraction was free coffee and cookies in the gift shop.

Demonstration of Antique Mining Machinery at the El Dorado Gold Mine in Fairbanks

Lunch was at Chena’s, a nice restaurant adjacent to the campground. Following lunch we were scheduled to tour the University Museum, but we elected to postpone our visit until we were more rested. This excellent museum deserves a morning schedule placement.

Our second full day in Fairbanks was a free day, during which we had planned to visit the aforesaid museum. However, the day dawned sunny and bright. Since this was only the second suny day of our entire trip, we decided not to waste it on an indoors activity. Instead we drove to North Pole, a small town about 10 miles east of Fairbanks. In North Pole Kathy discovered, of all things, Santa’s workshop. She spent well over an hour in the Christmas shop, while Keith napped in the car.

Santa Claus at North Pole, Alaska

A Very Happy Camper at North Pole

Have You Been a Good Girl This Year?

Returning from North Pole, Kathy snapped another magnificent skyscape. We probably wouldn’t be so fascinated with these fair skies, if we only saw more of them.

Another Beautiful Sky Approaching Fairbanks

Our last full day in Fairbanks featured a ride on the Riverboat Discovery and our farewell dinner, which wil be described in a subsequent post.

Alaskan Idyll, Days 31-33 Denali National Park

We left Palmer and headed for Denali on Saturday, July 19th. The weather was cool and cloudy but as we drove north the sun tried to come out from behind the clouds, and the Alaska Mountains came into view.

Alaskan Bridge Art at the Junction of the Glenn and Parks Highways

The Alaska Range, Viewed from the Parks Highway

At Alaska Highway Milepost 134.7 we did see glimpses of a mountain that we think was Denali. Little did we know that would be the only view we would see on this trip, as during the next two days the weather turned colder and rainier.

We Think This is Mt. Denali

Rain Clouds Vale Broad Pass in the Alaska Range

We were camped for 3 nights at Denali Riverside RV Park, which is located on the Tanana River. The location was great, being just 2 miles north of the Denali National Park. The view was panoramic as we watched rafters go down the river and the trains run along the other side of the canyon. The services at the campground were unfortunately less than satisfactory, as our electricity was an on again-off again proposition.

Rafters Seen from our Windshield

Another Windshield View

The Alaska Railroad Inches Along the Canyon Wall

On Sunday, July 20th we opted out of the organized group excursion into Denali National Park. Keith and I have both been on this tour more than once and have found it to be a long (6-7 hours) and uncomfortable bus ride, so we decided to tour the park on our own.

Private vehicles are allowed to drive the first 15 miles of the Park road to Savage River and that’s what we decided to do. Along the way we saw spectacular scenery as well as caribou, willow ptarmigan and moose. We caught the first two on camera, but were not quick enough to snap the huge moose that crossed the road in front of us.

Savage River Ranger Station

Enforces the Denali NP Road Private Vehicle Ban

Ptarmigan, the Alaskan State Bird

Caribou Browses Along the Savage River

On the way out of the park we stopped at the new Denali Visitor Center and viewed the animal exhibits as well as a 20-minute video on the seasons in Denali. Here we were treated to a beautiful mural of Mt. Denali, the best view of our trip.

Visitor Center Mural of Mt. Denali

We decided to try a local place for lunch called the Salmon Bake. Kathy had 8 oz salmon baked on a wooden plank seared with ginger and bourbon sauce (3.5 COWS) while Keith had halibut fish and chips (3 COWS). The ratings would have been a bit higher but the soggy warm French fries served with the meal were less than appetizing.

Denali Tourist Trap

We drove back to the campground, turned up the heat. When our fellow tourists returned from their bus trip we discovered we had seen more animals in Denali Park on our short trip than most of them had all day.

On Monday, July 21st our group went on a Husky Homestead tour. The 4 Time Iditarod champion, Jeff King lives with his family and 80 Alaskan Huskies on the shores of Goose Lake, just outside of Denali National Park. We saw demonstrations as the dogs used equipment designed to optimize their training like the dog-powered training carousel. We saw a short video on the swimming program that has been implemented has part of the training regimen and were treated to a very informative lecture on the relationship between the musher and his dogs. And of course we all were allowed to hold the puppies.

Our Friend Norma Holds a Puppy

That evening we attended Cabin Nite Dinner Theater. The all you can eat family style meal of salmon, ribs, corn, baked beans, salad, sourdough rolls and homemade blueberry cobbler rated (3.5COWS). The entertainment however was more like a drunken staff Christmas party of the 1990’s with the performers showing no musical or acting talent.

When we returned to our campground there were a dozen rafts going down the Tanana River. As we raised our hands to wish them well one rafter shouted up to us, “Any heat up there “ And that pretty much sums up our 3 days at Denali.

Alaskan Idyll, Days 28-30 Palmer

Established in 1916 as a railway station, Palmer is a small town in the Matanuska-Susitna Valley, about 40 miles north of Anchorage. The Mat-Su Valley is the breadbasket of Alaska. It was settled in the 1930's by homesteaders who were relocated from the upper mid-west by the Federal Emergency Relief Administration, during the Great Depression. True to it's roots, Palmer still has a small town mid-western agricultural feel to it, unlike the nearby town of Wasilla, which has discovered Wal Mart, Home Depot, Target, etc.

Our stay in Palmer included a guided tour. After being Sheparded through the area to see various original buildings, we stopped at a very nice visitors center.

Flowers Abound at the Palmer Visitor Center

Stuffed Musk Ox in Palmer Visitor Center

A pleasant garden was located adjacent to the visitors center, where we saw some beautiful flower beds, as well as a gigantic cabbage. Plants in the Mat Su valley grow very large because of the long hours of summer sunshine. Cabbage, for example, grow as large as 70 pounds.

Large Cabbage Growing Adjacent to Palmer Visitor Center

Just up the street from the Visitors center we toured an original homestead house. Our elderly hostess for this tour was an original settler from the 1930's. This small 4-1/2 room home was almost identical to the 2 bedroom house where Keith grew up in Gary, Indiana.

Colony House Museum

An 1930’s Colonist

Comestibles of the Period

My Grandmother’s Sewing Machine

Across the street from the homestead house was a restaurant where we wee served a 3 COW soup and sandwich luncheon. As with many facilities in the area, the restaurant was adorned with beautiful flowers.

Product of the Long Alaskan Summer Days

After lunch we were taken to a nearby Musk Ox farm. This farm is a preservation facility, where domesticated Musk Ox may be observed from fenced walkways. Having been-there-done-that, we stayed on the bus. The photo is courtesy of our friends Hal and Norma.

Nurturing the Musk Ox

Part of the reason we stayed on the bus was a concern for Kathy’s health. During lunch, she mentioned that the left side of her face felt numb, and had done since she had awakened in the morning. Keith studied her face, and saw a noticeable droop to he left eye, and a tightness to the left side of her mouth. We found this somewhat alarming, so immediately after returning to the campground we drove the car to the Palmer Urgent Care Center. Upon hearing her symptoms, the doctor there sent us straight to Palmer Hospital emergency room. After describing her symptoms to the triage nurse, we were informed that Kathy had Bell's Palsy, which is a minor, usually temporary neurological disorder. We were greatly relieved, having thought that perhaps she was having a stroke. Whew! After a visit to the Wal Mart pharmacy for meds, we celebrated our relief with a high priced dinner at a Wasilla yuppie Italian restaurant. Kathy had steak (3-1/2 COWs, Keith seafood pasta with wine sauce (2 COWs).

Afternoon Activity in Palmer

The next day was a free day, and we continued celebrating by resting, napping, and generally enjoying a pleasant day in the campground.

Alaskan Idyll, Days 23-28 Kenai Peninsula

On Friday July 11th we left Anchorage and departed for Seward. The ride along Turnagain Arm is as spectacular as we remembered from past visits. We drove through an alpine terrain of glaciers and lakes. We were even greeted by a family of Dall sheep on the rocks above the highway. Unfortunately, we also were greeted with cloudy, hazy weather, so the photo opportunities were not the best. Once again, we will resort to incorporation of some of our summer 2005 photos to best showcase the spectacular scenery.

2005 Photo of Turnagain Arm

Dall Sheep Seen Along the North Side of Turnagain Arm

We have been to Seward a couple of times before and have thoroughly enjoyed the many tourist activities that Seward has to offer, so this trip we spent our time wandering along the waterfront and simply enjoying the atmosphere of this bustling fishing port. We were only there two days and could have easily stayed another week camped in the waterfront park.

Seward Harbor, as Seen from Our Waterfront Campground

During our leisurely stroll along the Seward small boat harbor, we saw several interesting sights. A sea lion was hanging about the fish cleaning station, looking for handouts. Accompanying the sea lion was a bevy of seagulls, looking for same.

Scrounger

Assistant Scrounger

While strolling, we stopped to photograph a chainsaw bear, and were approached by a nice lady who took our picture with the boat harbor as background.

Seward Waterfront Sculpture

Beauty and the Beast in Seward

At the entrance to each dock, there was a rack of child life preservers, available for loan to any child venturing onto the docks. We thought this was a splendid idea, and would encourage universal adoption at all docks and marinas.

A Wonderful Idea

Of course, the waterfront abounded with opportunities for retail therapy. While Kathy was shopping, Keith became fascinated with the metallurgy of the old anchor on display in front of the shops. Note the laminated structure in the flukes.

Laminated Structure Seen in Flukes of Antique Anchor

On Sunday July 13th we drove from Seward to Homer. About 30 miles north of Seward the road branches west toward the Cook inlet. Along the way we saw a few people fishing in the Russian River, but not nearly so many as in past seasons. As noted previously, the Salmon are running late this year. Past Soldontna, the road turns south along the eastern shore of Cook Inlet. On a clear day, the various volcanic peaks alont the western shore of the inlet can be seen clearly from the many turnouts. Unfortunately, it was not a clear day, so we again substitute pictures taken on a prior trip.

Volcanic Peaks Across Cook Inlet from the Kenai Peninsula (2005 photo)

Also found along the road to Homer is the beautiful little fishing village of Ninilchik. There is a beachfront campground in Ninilchik, as well as an interesting Russian Orthodox church.

2005 Photo of Ninilchik

South of Ninilchik is Anchor Point, site of North Americas most westerly highway point. And, they have a sign to prove it. Once again, the blue sky is compliments of our 2005 photo collection.

North America’s Most Westerly Highway Point

Just north of Homer is an overlook with an excellent view of the Homer Spit. The Spit is a gravel bar that stretches about halfway across Kachemak Bay. We surmise it to be a glacial moraine, but we’re not sure of this.

Welcome to Homer!

Homer Spit

Our campground was located on the spit, with waterfront campsites facing the bay. The going rate for these sites is $70/night. As with many other of the campgrounds we have visited this summer, the campground was about half empty. We are wondering if the price of gas could have anything to do with this?

Our Waterfront Campground

The evening of our arrival we enjoyed a very nice meal of halibut and prime rib at Land’s End restaurant, on the end of the Spit (3.5COWS).

As with Seward, we were only scheduled here for two days in Homer, but this time it was filled with a new experience for Kathy-deep sea fishing. Homer is the Halibut fishing capital of the world and 9 members of our tour group (Kathy included) went out on a deep-sea halibut-fishing trip with Rainbow Charters on the 55-foot ship “Jackpot”. It was a wonderful experience We left at 5:30 am and returned at noon. Every member of our party caught the daily limit, which was 2 fish. Kathy’s 2 halibut weighed 12-15 pounds each. The largest fish caught that day was over 40 pounds.

A Day’s Catch

That evening we had a huge potluck roast of grilled halibut (courtesy of the fishers) and an assortment of other delicious dishes (courtesy of non-fishers) for our entire group.
We all had a wonderful time. We didn’t bring our camera to the roast, so are indebited to our friend Joe for the following photograph.

Halibut Roast

On Tuesday, July 16th we headed north for our last stop on the Kenai Peninsula, the town of Kenai. Kenai was established by Russian fur traders in 1791 and is one of the oldest permanent settlements in Alaska. For our 1 night stay we were camped at Beluga Lookout RV Park, which is located on a bluff overlooking the Cook Inlet and Kenai River. It gets its name from that fact that beluga whales can be seen from the bluff. We did not see any whales, but we did see many Alaska State residents dip netting for their quota of Salmon in the Kenai River.

Fisherman Line the Banks of the Kenai River
Dip Netting for Salmon

Fishermen Carrying Their Equipment to the Water

That evening we were treated to a very disappointing buffet dinner of lasagna and salad at Paradisos Restaurant (2 COWS). The quantity and quality of the food was very marginal.

On Wednesday, Day 28, we drove from Kenai back around Turnagain Arm and through Anchorage to the town of Palmer, in the Matanuska Valley. Along the way we were treated to more spectacular views of Kenai Lake, and of the snowcapped Kenai Mountains. We conclude this post with a decorative sculpture seen on a bridge abutment in Anchorage.

Kenai Lake

Kenai Mountains

Anchorage Bridge Sculpture