Alaskan Idyll, Days 10-11 Fjord Express to Juneau

We continue to be parked on the waterfront in Skagway. We spent yesterday (Day 10) lazing about the coach, doing minor chores, surfing the net, and just relaxing in the glow of our wonderful view. Kathy commented that we haven’t even turned on the TV. Keith’s rejoinder was who needs TV with this view! Our TV for this stop is the windshield.

Sunday’s excitement was a 60-mile catamaran ride from Skagway to Juneau, which is the capitol of Alaska. The trip down the Taiya Inlet and the Lynn Canal to Haines is breathtaking. And then it gets better! The Lynn Canal is really a deep glacial fjord, with steep forested cliffs towering thousands of feet above the deep blue -gray water. Along the way we spotted a pair of eagles nesting in the trees.

Departing Skagway

Love Nest

A bit further along is the town of Haines, Alaska, nestled at the base of the Chilkat pass. It is Keith’s opinion that Haines is the most picturesque town in Alaska. We stopped briefly in Haines to pick up passengers. There Keith experienced a bit of nostalga when he spotted a Uniflite 28 ft. Mega, just like the one he used to own.

Uniflite Mega 28 foot Flybridge Sedan

Departing Haines

After leaving in Haines, we proceeded south on the Inside Passage toward Juno. Along the way we spotted another eagle, whales, porpoise, and a colony of sea lions. The porpoise were difficult to photograph underwater.

Dual Use Navigation Marker

A Friendly Whale Waves to the WIT Group

Sea Lions Observe WIT Tourists

Puppy Love

South of Haines the water broadened as we left the Lynn Canal and entered the inside passage. To the east are the towering Coastal Range mountains. To the west are the Chilkat Mountains, which form the eastern side of Glacier Bay where we cruised last spring with Holland American. Further south, the Icy Strait branches westward to Glacier Bay and the Gulf of Alaska. We proceeded south, and docked north of Juneau, where we were met by a tour bus.

Chilcat Mountains

Hanging Glacier Seen in the Chilcats

Our first stop in Juneau was lunch at Doc Whathisname’s. Good burger and fish, but a bit pricey. Guess pricey goes with the tourist territory. After lunch was a short walk to the bakery for bread and bagels, then McDonald’s for hot fudge sundaes. Normally $1.00 in the lower 48, on special for $1.50 in Juneau. After a quick stop at the drug store for Aleve (Keith has a backache), we walked back to Marine Square to sit and admire the Amsterdam. A year ago in the spring we visited Juneau on this vessel. We are looking forward to our North Atlantic Cruise next summer on her sister ship, the Maasdam.

A Few of Our WIT Friends Gather In the Lee of the Amsterdam

At 3pm we re-boarded the bus for a photo-op at Mendenhall Glacier.

Mendenhall Glacier

At 5pm we re-boarded our catamaran for the return to Skagway. On the return journey we observed numerous boats fishing for salmon. The season opened at noon today, and the activity was frantic. The boats drag nets perpendicular to the current. Salmon become entangled and are retrieved for sale to process boats.

Fishing Boats Dot the Horizon

Retrieving the Catch

Along the way, our owner-operator pointed out a 4000+ ft. peak in the Chilcats that was rounded by glaciers, which covered its summit during the last ice age. We also cruised close aboard the scenic Eldritch Lighthouse. This island is for sale, with the stipulation that the buyer must promise to maintain the lighthouse. We also passed close by a Carnival Cruise Boat sailing south out of Skagway. Our captain commented that Skagway is a very popular port for the Cruise boats because of the high commissions from the very popular train ride.

Four Thousand Foot Peak Rounded by the Glaciers

Eldritch Lighthouse

Carnival Cruises South out of Skagway

On arrival in Juneau at 8:30 we crashed, hoping to get enough sleep to be prepared for a 300-mile drive to Destruction Bay on Monday. Don't touch that dial!

Alaskan Idyll, Day 9 – Skagway Train Ride

Today’s touring activity was a ride on the White Pass & Yukon Railroad (WP&YR), round trip from Skagway to the White Pass summit.

White Pass & Yukon Railroad Locomotives

Made famous by the Klondike Gold Rush of 1898, Skagway is today a tourist and cruise boat Mecca, where opportunities for retail therapy abound. Gateway to the Yukon gold rush territory near Dawson City, Skagway grew from one cabin to a population of 20,000 in the winter of 1897-1898. During this winter, thousands of hopeful prospectors hauled a minimum of 1000 pounds of supplies each over the 3000 foot Chilkoot Pass, ascending a 35% grade near the summit using steps carved in the ice. By February, 1899, 35,000 laborers had carved a narrow gauge railway from bare rock over the White Pass. This railroad was extended to Whitehorse by Summer 1900. From Whitehorse north to Dawson City, the primary transportation mode was by steamboat on the Yukon River. The WP&YR hauled ore and concentrates to boats in Skagway for most of the twentieth century. During WWII, the WP&YR was the chief supplier for the US Army’s construction of the Alaska Highway. The WP&YR suspended freight operations in 1982 when world metal prices plummeted, then resumed operations as a narrow gauge excursion railroad in 1988. The WP&YR was designated an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 1994. Fueled by the cruise boat trade, the WP&YR excursion has grown to a first class attraction.

The WP&YR excursion begins at the downtown railroad station and gift shop. The train passes through the back side of town, then commences the arduous climb up the mountain. Along the way are views of several bridges and trestles, two tunnels, a brief glimpse of the 1898 “Trail of Tears”, and numerous breathtaking mountain views. There is a large horseshoe bend where with excellent views of the track on the opposite side of the canyon. At the summit, the train pauses while the three locomotives are switched from one end of the train to the other for the descent. The AAA tour book rates this ride a “Gem”, and for good reason.

The WP&YR Train Crosses the East Branch of the Skagway River

East Branch of the Skagway River, near Skagway

Another Train Climbs the Horseshoe Curve

World’s Tallest Cantilever Bridge, When Abandoned in 1969

A Beautiful Mountain Stream

Skagway From the Train

A Bird’s Eye View of the Klondike Highway

1898 Trail of Tears

Lakeside at the White Pass Summit

Glacial Scoured Rock at the Summit

Conductor Checks the Brakes for our Descent

Alaskan Idyll, Day 8 – Klondike Highway

Today’s drive was short, but filled with scenic beauty. We departed Whitehorse at 9am, an hour later than the usual Caravan callout, which was a blessing after the late evening return from the Frantic Follies. We back-tracked about 6 miles south on the Alcan, then turned south on the Klondike Highway, headed for Skagway, AK. This road winds upward to the White Pass, then descends steeply down to Skagway, at the tip of the Lynn Canal.

Rolling South on the Klondike Highway

Along the way the road passes Emerald Lake, named for it’s turquoise blue waters.

Emrald Lake

Past Emerald Lake is the micro-town of Carcross, YT, site of a pleasant vsitors center and gift shop, where muffins and ice cream are available. Carcross was a stop on the White Pass and Yukon Railroad, which was cut through White Pass during the 1898 gold rush. Also on display in Carcross is an antique steam engine from the gold rush days.

Carcross Visitors Center

Carcross Antique

Driving south toward the pass the road travels along Tutshi Lake for several miles. Abandoned mine buildings are seen along this stretch of highway.

Lake Tutshi

Abandonded Mine Facilties on Lake Tutshi

Also seen along this stretch, much to the pleasure of Kathy, was a black bear. Gallant Keith unwisely exited the vehicle to photograph this bear for Kathy. He got away with it, but he would not have done it for a Grisly, which is a much more temperamental species than the Black.

Bruin

Bruin Meets Keith, Up Close and Personal

Terrain at the Summit of White Pass is very sere and forbidding, with little vegetation and much evidence of glacial scarring. Substantial snow remains on the adjoining peaks, even in late June. When crossed in mid May, 1998, this area was solid white.

Glacial Scarred Rock in the White Pass

The international Border is at the Pass, after which the highway descends steeply, loosing 3292 feet elevation in 15 miles. For reasons which we do not understand, US customs and immigration is located about halfway down the grade, instead of at the border. We are not sure what happens if they refuse to let you in; there is not much room to turn around at the customs station. If there is a problem, maybe you park your rig and get a free ride in a police car the rest of the way.

International Border

Descending Toward Skagway

Near the bottom of the grade is a view of Skagway, complete with it’s quota of Cruise ships. There were 4 boats in port the afternoon we arrived; two Princess boats, one Norwegian, and one Holland American. Our campground in Skagway is on the harbor, just a short walk from downtown. We can see the harbor and the boats from our windshield. It don't get no better than this!

Skagway Harbor Viewed from the Klondike Highway

Princess Dominates the Skagway Harbor

Tomorrow we ride back up to the White Pass on the White Pass & Yukon RR, which operates a tourist train on the old right of way. Don’t miss it!