Alaskan Idyll, Day 4 - Watson Lake, BC

Today dawned cloudy and rainy. Keith regretted that he was too tired to go out and take pictures of the lake last night while the sun was shining, so the following “mood” shot will have to serve.

Muncho Lake, in a Pensive Mood

Today’s drive was not so spectacular, but was still every bit as scenic as yesterday’s ride through the Rockies. North of Muncho Lake the landscape turns to heavily forested rolling hills. At milepost 476.7 the road crosses the Liard River on the highway’s only remaining suspension bridge, made partially of components salvaged from Galloping Gertie. For those who may not know about it, Galloping Gertie was a suspension bridge over the Tacoma Narrows, which collapsed in a high wind shortly after it opened in 1940. One car was on the bridge when it fell. The driver narrowly escaped by running to the end as the bridge went down. His dog and his car were lost in the disaster, which was filmed by an amateur movie photographer.

Liard River Bridge; Legate of Galloping Gertie

Up the road just a piece, at milepost 477, is Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park. Boardwalks lead to the steaming pools, and changing houses are provided for those who wish to bathe in the warm water. Bears have been a problem here in the past, but we have heard of no recent attacks. Being as it rained most of the day, we did not stop at the springs this trip.

There was significantly less construction and frost damage along this stretch of road, as compared to yesterday’s drive through the mountains. A significant stretch seemed almost brand new, with wide shoulders and moderate grades and curves. As we rode along this improved road we spotted Bison at several locations. It is good to know that this tasty species has not gone entirely extinct.

Bison Bison

At large turnout with picnic facilities is located at Mile 550.9. A cairn near the picnic area is dedicated to Surveyors of the Alaska Highway. A short walk from the cairn is a beautiful view of the Liard River.

Liard River Overlook

At mile 567.9 is Historic Milepost 588 on Contact Creek (see yesterday’s post for discussion of the difference between current highway miles and historic miles). The creek is the site where soldiers working southeast from Whitehorse met troops working northwest from Fort Nelson in September 1942, completing the southern section of the Alcan.

Contact Creek Plaque

Past Contact Creek the highway winds west along the BC-Yukon Border, recrossing the borderline 6 times before reaching g the “official” border post at historic milepost 627.

Welcome to the Yukon!

A unique and interesting “signpost forest” is located in the town of Watson Lake YT. The story goes that in 1942 a lonely soldier erected a sign pointing to his hometown in the lower 48. Other soldiers added their signs, and the “forest” grew from there. Tourists are still adding to the forest, which currently numbers over 60,000 signs. Our Wagonmaster added a sign from our current caravan; Keith was pleased to locate the sign which our group erected in 2005.

Watson Lake Signpost Forest

Memento From 2005 WIT Alaska II Caravan

Alaskan Idyll Day 3 Muncho Lake, BC

Today’s relatively short (160 mile) journey took us west through the Rocky Mountains from Ft. Nelson to Muncho Lake, BC. A few miles west of Ft. Nelson the road deteriorates somewhat. East of the mountains, the road is newer and wider, with fewer sharp curves. In 1998, when Keith first came this way, it was newly paved and smooth as silk. By 2005, after seven winters, it had become somewhat rougher. After yet three more winters, it’s gotten even rougher.

Approaching the Rocky Mountains

Through the Rockies, the road becomes narrower, with numerous sharp curves with speed limits as slow as 10mph. The road surface also deteriorates further, with numerous short gravel patches. Keith almost missed noting one of these, which happened to be on a downhill lie. Fortunately he spotted it just in time go brake sharply while still on the pavement. Trying to brake while traveling downhill on gravel is a truly exciting experience!

Winding Into the Foothills

Crossing the Tetsa River on the Road to Summit Lake Pass

For two days, we have been hop scotching with a group of vintage sports cars traveling in loose formation. While stopped for gas in Ft. Nelson, Kathy spoke with one of the drivers and learned that they were on a journey from Panama to Alaska. Each driver has picked a charity, and is driving to earn donations.

Vintage Sports Cars Bound from Panama to Alaska

A short distance into the foothills, at milepost 342.8, is Indian Head Mountain. Similar to New Hamshire’s Old Man in the Mountain, before it crumbled, Indian Head is a stone formation which can be seen as a facial profile. The old man was trying to hide in the clouds today.

Indian Head Mountain in a Shy Mood

While on the subject of mileposts, it is interesting to note that there are two kinds of miles (kilometers in Canada) along the Alaska Highway. There are highway miles, and there are historical miles. Highway miles represent the distance along the modern highway from milepost zero in Dawson Creek. Historical miles represent the distance along the original Alaska highway from the same milepost zero. Why are these two mileages different? They are different because the Alcan is shorter than it used to be! Highway improvements over the years have straightened many of the most winding stretches, thereby shortening the total highway length by tens of miles between Dawson Creek and Delta Junction.

There is an annual publication named the milepost, which describes the Northwest Highways mile by mile, including highway and scenic features, commercial services, campgrounds, fishing opportunities, etc. along the road. Many businesses advertise in this essential guide. To locate an establishment, it is necessary note carefully whether their address is a historical or a current milepost number. To further complicate things, the mileposts in Canada are really kilometer posts , and many are missing, victims to either snowplows or souvenir hunters.

As we traveled toward the peak of the Rockies, the sky clouded over. We are not sure if the two factors are linked, but as the sun disappeared we started to see more wildlife.

Foraging in the Rain

At the peak of the Rocky Mountains is Summit Lake Pass, at an altitude of almost 4000ft. Located in the pass is Summit Lake. When the sun is shining, this is a breathtakingly beautiful spot, with the water surrounded by the majestic Rocky Mountain peaks. The lake is just below the tree line, so that the surrounding mountains are bare rock. Not surprisingly, park at the summit is named Stone Mountain Provincial Park. We lunched at Summit Lake, and thoroughly enjoyed it, despite the less than sunny weather.

Summit Lake Looks Lovely in Any Weather

Less Than Exotic Wildlife at Summit Lake

Stone Mountain Hides in the Clouds

Past the summit, winding down along the Toad River, we encountered more wildlife, including moose, caribou, and mountain sheep. Kathy was ecstatic. It rained a bit on the rest of the trip to the campground, but no problems. The mountain valley scenery along this narrow and winding section of the road is fantastic.

Winding Downhill Along the Toad River

Kathy Spots Caribou

Momma Poses for the Camera

Stone Mountain Sheep

Stone Mountain Sheep Exhibit Incredible Climbing Skills

At the end of todays journey we were treated to a ride along the shore of Muncho Lake. We are parked in a campground on the lake, awaiting a travel meeting at 5pm, and dinner at 5:30. Tomorrow we drive on to Watson Lake.

Approaching Muncho Lake

Alaskan Idyll, Day 2 - Ft. Nelson BC

Our first day on the Alcan.

We departed Dawson Creek at 8am this morning, bound north on the Alaska Highway (Alcan) for Fort Nelson, BC.

The Alcan originates in Dawson Creek, and there is a monument to prove it! At 4:30 yesterday afternoon, everyone in our newly assembled caravan boarded a school bus for a group photo at the mile zero monument. We waited a few minutes for the last arrival to join us. They were held up 6 days in Wisconsin after a turkey flew into their windshield. It broke the glass, and damaged the frame. We were so pleased that they were able to catch up with us.

Our WIT Tour Group at Mile Zero

Following the photo op, we re-boarded our bus for a ride to the George Dawson Inn, where we were served a nice roast beast dinner (3 COWs), followed by an entertaining slide show about the Dawson Creek area and the Alaska Highway.

The original Alaska Highway, called the pioneer road, was slashed through the northern wilderness in only 8 months during 1942, shortly after Pearl Harbor, under a perceived threat of imminent invasion by the Japanese. Stretching 1422 miles northwest, the Alcan, as it eventually became known, extended to Delta Junction, Alaska, where it joined the Richardson Highway, which runs from Valdez to Fairbanks. The folks in Fairbanks would like you to believe that their town is the official terminus of the Alcan (or the origin, depending on which way you are traveling), but the Richardson predates the Alcan by about 50 years, so Delta Junction gets the nod.

We were told that the original road cost 17 thousand dollars per mile, re-stated in 2008 dollars. That seems cheap in comparison to a modern interstate highway, which can cost well over a million dollars per mile.

At 8am this morning, our leader dispatched us from the campground, and we began rolling north along the modern Alcan. About 20 miles north of Dawson Creek is the last remaining timber bridge from the original 1942 construction. Called the Kiskatinaw Bridge, it is no longer on the main highway, but is on an 8 mile loop off the original road. We took the detour to view this remnant of the earlier road. With a 24 ton rating, the bridge was more than adequate for us to cross with our 7 ton vehicle.

Rolling North out of Dawson Creek

Kiskatinaw Bridge

A piece of the Original Alcan

A few miles further north the road crosses the Peace River on a large, modern bridge. The descent into the river canyon is steep and winding, as is the ascent on the other side.

Peace River Bridge and Canyon

Not too far north of the Peace River we encountered our first windshield casualty, as we were struck by a stone flung from a passing truck. The windshield has been cracked for some time, but Keith was waiting to replace it until after this trip. Good call. Another Alcan “hazard” is the flies and mosquitoes, some of which are large enough to have four motors. Needless to say, we collected our share to decorate our damaged windshield.

Our First Windshield Casualty

Bugs Decorating our Cracked Windshield

Up the road another 50 miles is Shepherds motel, filling station, and restaurant, where we stopped for a cinnamon roll break. The rolls were large, filling, and tasty. While a tad on the early side, we declared this stop lunch.

Wildlife is one of the features enjoyed by some tourists in this territory. People in our group reported seeing moose, bear, and wild horses on today’s drive. We saw no bear, and the only moose we saw was a motor vehicle casualty, but we did spot a small heard of wild horses.

Critters

As the road proceeds further north it parallels the spine of the Rocky Mountains, rolling along through the foothills like waves marching to the shore.

The Alcan Parallels the Rocky Mountains for Many Miles North of Dawson Creek

Approaching Fort Nelson

Approaching Fort Nelson numerous white, fluffy clouds appeared to contrast with the brilliantly blue sky, but it did not rain. We were glad to arrive at our campground, after the obligatory stop at the local Shell dealer. Our gas bill for the 224 miles since the last fill-up at Fort St. John was $177. This is going to be an expensive trip! Tomorrow we motor west to Muncho Lake, in the heart of the Rocky Mountains. Stay tuned.

Alaskan Idyll, Day 1 - Dawson Creek, BC

We currently are at Dawson Creek, British Columbia, mile zero on the Alaska Highway. We are camped at Northern Lights, an unremarkable campground with no satellite TV, poor satellite radio, and iffy internet, on the outskirts of Dawson Creek, BC.

We arrived in Dawson Creek after a five day drive from Chimacum, Washington. Thursday morning, after retrieving Kathy from the Seattle Airport at midnite, we took the Port Townsend Ferry to Widbey Island and drove a short distance north to Camp Wal Mart, in Bellingham, WA. Friday we crossed the border and motored north through the beautiful Fraiser River Canyon, stopping for the night at Lac La Hache Provincial Park.

The Port Townsend Ferry

Windshield View of the Fraiser River Canyon

On Saturday, we drove 300 miles from Lac La Hache, through St. George, to Chetwynd, BC, where we paused for a couple of days to visit two nearby dams on the Peace River. In Chetwynd we stayed at a small campground named Westwind. It is a full service campground with free wifi and some spotty satellite TV reception.

The drive north to St. George from Lac La Hache was pastoral, with many farms and ranches. North of St. George, the landscape is much more remote as you start to view dense forest, interspersed with marshy areas. About 100 miles north of Prince George, the road turns east and crosses the spine of the Rocky Mountains, descending toward Chetwynd and Dawson Creek, on the edge of the great Canadian Prairie.

Crossing the Rockies

Rocky Mountain Flora

On Sunday we took a automobile ride to Hudson’s Hope, site of two major dams on the Peace River. These 2 dams supply 38% of the hydropower used in B.C. Our first stop was the WAC Bennett Dam, where for $3 each we had an excellent tour into the powerhouse and manifold chamber . WAC Bennett is a very large earthen dam that forms Williston Lake, which is a popular recreation area in northern BC.

WAC Bennett Dam and Williston Lake

Combination Water Turbine and Fish Filter from the Dam

Dam Wildlife

Rainclouds Invade the Peace River Canyon Downstream from the Dam

Our second stop was Peace Canyon Dam, which is a smaller concrete dam downstream a few miles from the WAC Bennett. The dam’s reservoir is called Dinosaur Lake. No tour is offered, but there is a visitor’s center as well as picnic facilities and a nice view of the dam.

In our travels we spotted several deer as well as one fawn (see above). The day started out sunny, but turned into a rainy afternoon with intermittent heavy downpours as we motored back to our home on wheels for our afternoon nap. The sound of rain on our roof was pleasant, and lulled us right to sleep.

The morning after our Dam visits we motor east about 60 miles to Dawson Creek, BC, which is mile zero on the Alcan (Alaska Highway). There we will rendezvous with our caravan for the long trek to Alaska. Stay tuned.

Dawson Creek, on the Edge of the Great Canadian Prairie

A Family Interlude in Seattle

Where in the World are Keith and Kathy?

We recently spent a month in a beautiful Escapees Park in Chimacum, Washington, near Port Townsend. During this period we visited with our son, who is a graduate student at the University of Washington. Our daughter and one of our granddaughters flew out from Maryland to spend a long weekend with us, and we flew to Massachusetts a few days for Kathy’s parent’s 60th wedding anniversary. Kathy actually flew to Massachusetts twice, but that’s a different story.

Happy 60th Anniversary to Helen and Walter

Port Townsend is a quaint, somewhat artsy-fartsy town, with several Victorian era homes and commercial buildings. The downtown area includes many establishments which cater to the female visitor’s never ending thirst for retail therapy, as well as a couple of excellent Thai restaurants, and a terminal for the ferry to Whidbey Island. Our busy schedule limited our time to tour the town, but Keith did enjoy several good Thai meals during Kathy’s second visit to Massachusetts. We rate the Thai 1 2 3 restaurant in Port Townsend 3-3/4 COWs. There is no table service, but they will bring your meal to the table after ordering and paying at the counter. The benefit of this limited service is excellent food at reasonable prices, about 10 to 20 percent lower than typical for full service Thai. There also is a very good diner in Chimacum, where we enjoyed several excellent breakfasts.

We enjoyed several meals in the Seattle area with our son and his wife, including a couple of good Indian meals, as well Pho, which is a tasty Vietnamese rice noodle soup. We also had lunch at Chandlers, a upscale restaurant with waterfront seating on the southern tip of Lake Union.

Lunch at Chandlers

For our visit with the 4 year old granddaughter, we moved temporarily to the KOA in Kent, near the SeaTac airport. We seldom stay at KOA, because they are pricy and cater mostly to families, but it was perfect for this visit. Our granddaughter thoroughly enjoyed the heated KOA pool, and the playground. She also enjoyed her visit with Uncle Will and Aunt Larissa, who pitched their new tent in a nearby site. We cannot comment with certainty, but we hope she also enjoyed her visit with Grandpa and Babchi. We were sad to see them go, and will look forward to seeing them again in the fall.

Larissa in the KOA Pool With the Blossom

When Kathy was in Massachusetts, Keith had a couple of interesting submarine experiences. While crossing the Hood Canal he was stopped at the drawbridge, which was open for passage of the USS Alabama, a nuclear missile submarine leaving the Bangor Naval Submarine Base for Pacific patrol. He learned these details while chatting with a young lady who was standing on the roadside taking photographs, as her husband departing for duty on this vessel. Keith unfortunately did not take pictures, as he not have the camera.

A few days later, Keith visited the Naval Undersea Warfare Museum near Bremerton, Washington. This fine museum features many excellent and well interpreted displays on all aspects of undersea warfare including submarines, submariners, torpedoes, diving and submarine rescue technology, WWI and II submarine actions, etc. There also were excellent interpretive displays on weather, geology, ocean currents, and other geophysical topics related to undersea navigation. To Keith’s delight, there was even a display highlighting the role of materials advances in the evolving development of underwater capability.

Naval Undersea Warfare Museum

Nuclear Submarine Control Room

On 10 June, at midnite, Keith picked up Kathy at SeaTac airport, and the next day we took the ferry to Whidbey Island and drove north to Bellingham, WA, where we parked with 17 other RV’s at camp Wal Mart. This is an excellent stop, with plenty of RV parking away from the cars on the west side of the lot. The store is open 24 hours, and Keith shopped at 4am. Later in the morning we crossed the border and motored north through the beautiful Frasier River Canyon, stopping for the night at Lac La Hache Provincial Park. Our next destination is Dawson Creek, BC, where we rendezvous with our Alaska Caravan. More to follow.