Reunion Journey, Days 6-9 Dawson City to Watson Lake

The first leg of our journey took us from Dawson City to Whitehorse along the Klondike Highway. The weather since Fairbanks has been warm and sunny, a major improvement over the past month in Alaska. We were given an article from the Anchorage newspaper which noted that this is a La Nina year, which supposedly accounts for the markedly colder and wetter Alaskan weather this summer.

A Sunny Day Southbound on the Klondike Highway

So what’s a La Nina, you may ask? It is a periodic, transient 2 to 4 degree cooling of the southern Pacific waters off the coast of Peru. La Nina is the opposite end of the El Nino cycle, which is a periodic, transient warming of the same waters. The El Nino brings wet and stormy weather to southern California, while it’s La Nina counterpart brings nice weather to the southwest and @%^#$% weather to Alaska.

Meteorological explanations notwithstanding, the weather has finally turned nice, at least for a few days, and we are reveling in the dry, sunny skies as we travel south on the Klondike Highway.

The Klondike Highway is a paved road that is narrow and winding, particularly the northern half. Shortly after leaving Dawson Creek we had a serious construction detour onto a dirt road. Fortunately, the detour was only a few miles. We suspect that it followed an earlier generation of the current highway.

Back on the paved road, we passed huge and endless piles of brush cutting and burnings. They are cutting the trees back about 50 feet from the pavement. We are not sure why this is done. One major benefit is that it removes the cover for large animals, so they cannot lurk unseen at the edge of the pavement, ready to dart out when spooked by an approaching vehicle.

Brush Piles Waiting to be Burned

We stopped at Carmacks Hotel and RV Park for the night. We were treated to a pretty good meal at the Gold Panner Restaurant (3COWS). Kathy had pierogi; not as good as moms, but pretty good for the outback. Keith had a decent burger and fries.

Early the next morning we continued on to Whitehorse. The road improved as we drove south toward civilization. It became less winding, with fewer construction breaks. Shortly after setting out, one companion coaches experienced a serious flat tire on his tow vehicle. We saw them pull over and called on the CB, but receiving no response, we assumed they were off for a comfort break and drove on by. We felt chagrined, and apologize profoundly.

South of Carmacks the Road Improves

We stopped at Brae burn Lodge and purchased two of their world famous cinnamon rolls (2.5COWS) with a hefty price tag of $17.00. We met former caravaners, Bob and Marilyn, who were finishing their breakfast there.

Home of the $8.50 Cinnamon Roll

On the way into Whitehorse we passed Lake Labarge in the distance. Unfortunately it was too far away to take a good photograph. This body of water figures prominently in the Robert Service poetry about Dan McGrew, who is “cremated on the marge of Lake Labarge”.

We spent 2 days in Whitehorse at the Hi Country RV Park. It was a pleasant interlude and most of our group would have liked another day there. Whitehorse was an R & R stop for us. We shopped, did laundry and had a couple of good meals.

Keith was craving Asian cuisine so we lunched at the Asia Restaurant. The lunch buffet was small but tasty (2.5 COWS). As we were eating Keith remembered this was the same restaurant he had dined at with his sister on a previous trip in 1998.

We also dined with a group of 9 at the Klondike Salmon and BBQ Restaurant. I will give this restaurant 4COWS. It was a bit pricey but the food was excellent and the menu selections diverse. Kathy had Musk Ox Stroganoff. The meat was sweet and the sauce a rich sour cream and brandy concoction poured over garlic mashed potatoes. Keith had seafood fettuccini. A generous portion of seafood in a buttery sauce. The menu also offered bison, caribou and Canadian Alberta prime rib, as well as Alaska Crab and Char.

It was here in Whitehorse we said farewell to a former caravaner, Mary Ellen and er faithful companion Henri. While not one the original 5 coaches which left Fairbanks together, she joined us intermittently on our trek from Dawson City to Whitehorse. We were always glad to see her. Unfortunately, she got a flat tire on the way to Carmacks and was not able to purchase a replacement tire in Whitehorse for her Rialta. She was compelled to wait in Whitehorse for a replacement tire, which could take up to two weeks. We are wishing her the best of luck in remedying her plight.

In Whitehorse we did meet up with former Wagon master Carol, who is traveling with her mother and her niece Nicole. She will be traveling with our group to Prince George

After leaving Whitehorse, we retraced our northbound route through the Cassier Mountains along the Alaska Highway to Watson Lake. The southbound trip was a totally different drive, as the sun shone brightly and there was no fog , rain or mud.

Approaching the Cassier Mountains

on the Alcan South of Whitehorse

Along the Alcan south of Whitehorse, we passed a couple of visually striking bridges on our way to Watson Lake. Keith is fascinated with the structural aspects of bridges. There are a multitude of ways to span and carry loads across an obstacle such as a river. Keith likes to look at bridge structures, and try to figure out how the design engineer configured it to most efficiently fulfill it’s design intent.

The simplest bridge, emerging from antiquity, is a tree trunk laid over a creek. The log functions as a simple beam. It supports the load in bending, with compression (pushing) force in it’s upper fibers, tensilon (stretching) force in it’s lower fibers, and shear in the center of the log. These forces distribute the load from the middle of the log to the creek banks.

Recent improvements to the simple beam bridge include replacing wood with much stronger steel, and changing the form of the beam to place most of the structural material at the upper and lower surfaces, where the compression and tensile loads are greatest. These upper and lower flanges are joined by a relatively thin web, which ties the upper and lower load carrying members together. This form is sometimes known as an “I” beam, or a girder. The steel beam, or girder bridge is the simplest and most widely seen of all bridge forms.

A more sophisticated elaboration of the simple beam is the truss bridge, where the upper and lower load carrying members are more widely separated, and are joined together with a filigree of connecting struts that tie the primary upper and lower load bearing members together. The truss structure may be located either above or below the roadway; in either case, the truss functions structurally as a simple, but highly efficient beam. Being more structurally efficient, trusses can span substantially greater distances than a simple “I” beam, without collapsing under their own weight.

A beautiful example of a multiple-span truss bridge crosses Nisutlin Bay at MP 776 on the Alcan. The forces experienced by the primary upper and lower structural members are illustrated in the accompanying photograph. In this form of truss bridge, the roadbed is supported by the lower truss members, which are loaded in tension. The Nisutlin Bay bridge is the longest water span on the Alaska Highway at 1917 ft. The multiple trusses span this distance much more efficiently than would simple “I” beams, which would be shorter and require many more pilings in the riverbed.

Multiple Span Truss Bridge Crossing Nisutlin Bay

at MP 776 on the Alaska Highway

Scenic View of Teslin Lake

South of the Teslin River Bridge

Another very striking bridge crosses the Teslin River north of Nisutlin Bay at MP 808.6. This bridge is a hybrid of two bridge forms. The center span is a steel arch assembly. The arch form was used extensively by the Romans. It functions primarily in compression, so is amenable to construction from brittle materials which do not gracefully carry tensile loads, such as stone. When fabricated from steel, the arch bridge is strong enough to span greater distances than the beam or truss, and is used where it is undesirable to place a bridge pier in the main channel. The photo below illustrates the compressive forces in the primary arch structure, and shows how they are reacted at the base of the arch.

The bridge segments which join the arch to the riverbank are trusses, similar in principle to those in the Nistulin Bay bridge, except that they are located below rather than above the roadbed. These truss segments serve two functions. First, they carry the primary load in their respective sections of the bridge. Second, they react the horizontal thrust component of the force from the central arch, and transmit this force to the bridge abutments. In this respect, they function similarly to the flying buttresses found on many medieval cathedrals.

Combination Underdeck Truss and Steel Arch Bridge

Spans the Teslin River at MP 806.6 on the Alaska Highway

Interestingly, the I35 bridge, which collapsed last year in Minneapolis, was very similar to the Teslin River bridge. The central arch form was used to avoid a mid-steam pier, which would have interfered with navigation on the Mississippi. Where structural forms such as the arch are fabricated of multiple structural elements, rather than being a monolithic structure, it is essential that the elements be rigidly tied together to function as a unit. In the case of the I35 bridge, the gussets which tied together the elements of the arch were undersize, and eventually distorted, causing the bridge to collapse.

"And the Road Goes Ever On and On

Down From the Door Where it Began"

In Watson Lake we stayed overnight at the Baby Nugget Campground. After our arrival Kathy started preparations for a large pot of her world famous spaghetti sauce. She made enough that we were able to host supper for 10, with enough left over for a couple of meals. Keith gives Kathy’s sauce 4COWS, an she does not argue.

Spagetti Fest at Watson Lake

Hand Carved Door on Gift Shop

at Baby Nugget Campground in Watson Lake

Our next couple of days will be a drive southward along the Cassier Highway to the twin towns of Stewart BC and Hyder, AK, where bears may sometimes be seen fishing in Fish Creek. Stay tuned!

Reunion Journey, Days 4,5 Dawson City,YT

Located on the Yukon River at the western edge of the Yukon Territory, Dawson was the center of the 1890’s Klondike gold rush. The metal gold continues to support the local economy to some degree, but these days Dawson also mines tourist gold. Catering both to the RV and the Cruise Tour business, the town has numerous dining and entertainment opportunities targeted at the itinerant tourist.

The Yukon River was a primary transportation corridor during the gold rush, and on into the 1950’s. Located on the riverfront behind a low levee, Main Street retains the colorful gold rush appearance, with numerous brightly painted false fronted buildings. Sitting on the Riverbank are a couple of antique riverboats, including the Keno, shown below.

Dawson City YT Main Street

Riverboat Keno

The drama of the gold rush was immortalized by authors such as Jack London and Robert Service. The cabins occupied by these two authors are preserved and are open for display by the government.

Jack London’s Cabin

We camped in Dawson at the Gold Rush RV Park. While there we enjoyed a delicious meal of fish tacos organized and cooked by Norma and Hal, and accompanied by numerous excellent appetizers, salads, and desserts provided by the participants. Four COW’s.

Gold Rush RV Park in Dawson City, YT

A Delightful Evening Meal With Our WIT Friends

The last evening in the campground, the following vehicle pulled in for the night. We had seen this German tour vehicle on the road, and thought it quite interesting. Tour participants sit in the front and tour by day, then sleep in the rear at night. We don’t know how many people it will accommodate, but it’s certainly an interesting way to travel for younger tourists who do not suffer from ABS (Ageing Bladder Syndrome).

An Interesting Tour Vehicle

The same evening this interesting tour bus arrived, a motorhme from Northern California arived with a story about a motorhome off the road near Chicken. Apparantly the coach wandered from the narrow right of way onto the soft shoulder and started to tip. The fellow we spoke with saw the incident happen. It was his opinion that the only thing which prevented the rig from going over was that the tow car stayed on firm ground and held it back. The Top of the World Highway is not outright dangerous, but it does require a heightened alertness to drive it safely.

Our first morning in town we ate breakfast at Klondike Kate’s, a historic restaurant near the campground. The food and service were excellent and the prices reasonable, so we returned with the group for dinner, which was not as good as breakfast.

Klondike Kate’s Restaurant

Our Group Dines at Kate’s

After dining at Kate’s, we moved on to Diamond Tooth Gertie’s, an 1890’s saloon , gambling hall, and stage entertainment venue. Going to Gertie’s is kind of like camping overnight at Wal Mart. It doesn’t cost much to get in, but you somehow wind up spending a lot of money. Cover charge was only $6 each, but Kathy’s martini was $10, and she left $40 at the tables. The show was a mix of show tunes sung by Gertie and her male cohort, punctuated by can-can style dances by four talented young ladies.

Diamond Tooth Gertie’s Gambling Hall

Three Different Shows at 8:30, 10:30, and Midnite

Our last evening in Dawson we drove up Dome Road to the top of the hill behind the town. The view from the top is spectacular. At the bottom of the hill is the town of Dawson, with the Yukon River as backdrop. Keith managed to snap a Mountain Goddess posing in front of the Ogilvie Mountains.

View of Dawson City and the Yukon River From Dome Road

Mountain Goddess Spotted on the Dome

Also visible from the Dome is the extensive damage to the countryside done by the gold mining. Also shown below is a machine which caused some of this damage in the past.

Extensive Evidence of Gold Mining Visible From the Dome

Historic Gold Dredge on Display Near Dawson

Tomorrow morning we depart south for Whitehorse, by way of Carmacks. The old Keith would have driven the 330 mile distance all in one day. Fortunately, the organizer of this Caravan Extension has better sense than Keith, and broke the drive into two days. More to follow.

Reunion Journey, Day 3 - Chicken AK to Dawson Creek YT

It was a dark and stormy night in Chicken, Alaska, at the beginning of the Top-of-the-World Highway. We were to arise and depart early, in an effort to avoid oncoming traffic, which is blocked at the border until the Customs Station opens at 8am.

About midnight it began to rain, and our spirits sank.

Then we arose and drove off, and found that the 6am departure suggested by Bob was an absolutely brilliant strategy. Thank you, Robert, for suggesting this approach! In the course of the two hour, 40 mile drive to the border we met only one westbound vehicle, allowing us to drive most of the way in the middle of the right of way, with 3 or 4 feet of clearance to the edge of the abyss. That was a good thing, because the road was wet and somewhat slippery, and visibility was limited in patches of fog. Fog is more difficult to navigate with no yellow line to follow, so it was doubly beneficial that we did not have to worry about oncoming traffic.

Bob arose early and did an early morning reconaissance in his car. He came back reporting that there was much improvement over his previous trip, with a lot of new gravel, and some widening in the tightest spots. Indeed, he was correct; we found the ride much improved over our 2005 experience. But the biggest difference was the lack of oncoming traffic. Thank you one more time for that, Bob

The photo was taken along a relatively level stretch of the US road. On the more rugged stretches, there was no safe place to pull over, and Keith didn’t feel safe stopping in the middle of the road so Kathy could take a picture. The good news was much fresh gravel, so the road surface was not quite so rough as we remembered it from 2005. But then, this road is always a fresh adventure.

A Wet, Narrow, Slippery Road to the Border

Along this drive we encountered many runny babbits out for an early breakfast, and a couple of herds of caribou near the border. Most unfortunately, we frightened the caribou away from the road, so the coaches following us did not see them. We apologize.

Fresh Caribou Tracks Near the Border

Shy American Caribou Disappear into the Brush at Our Approach

We arrived at the border just at 8am, and were met by the Canadian Customs Agent as he was unlocking the gate. The guard was very pleasant and polite, and our border crossing was expeditious. On crossing the border we lost an hour, crossing from the Alaskan into the Pacific time zone.

A Friendly Canadian Customs Agent

More Caribou, of Canadian Nationality

Blue Sky Added in Photoshop to Enhance Contrast With Animal

Past the border the road widened, and was paved for some stretches. But the rain and mud continued, and the fog was even thicker is some places. The wider right of way was much appreciated, as it was necessary to stay to the right in the fog, when oncoming traffic could not be seen in time to get over.

As We Proceeded On, the Road Got Rougher and the Fog Grew Thicker

About 11am we arrived at the free ferry crossing the Yukon River. The approach to the ferry landing is at the bottom of a 7 mile downgrade which drops 2000 feet from the hills above the river, fortunately on pavement.

The Klondike River Empties into the Yukon at Dawson City

We arrived just as the small ferryboat was unloading, so we drove right on and were in Dawson by 11:30. We were delighted that we did not have to disconnect the car on the ferry.

Dawson City Seen From Ferry Landing Across the Yukon River

Driving on the Ferry Boat

Midstream View of the Yukon

After stopping for gas ($1.64/liter), we registered at the nearby campground, then drove a couple of miles out of town to a car wash. We did not do a thorough job, but did get off most of the caked mud, after a half hour of work, during the course of which we inserted 10 loonies into the coin operated pressure washer.

When we crossed the border, we pulled over for a few minutes to let the rest of the coaches catch up with us. When Keith shut off the engine, the CB quit working. We soon discovered that the entire coach electrical system was dead. We had 12 volt power only when the engine was running. Normally Keith would address such a problem immediately on arrival at the campground, but on this day, his afternoon nap was first priority. After napping, he removed the cover from the coach battery compartment, and immediately discovered a broken battery terminal. After a trip to the local NAPA for a new terminal and a half hour of labor, all was fixed, and we now are firing on all 12 volts, if I may mix my metaphors.

We enjoyed a pleasant dinner at Sourdough Joes. Kathy had a tasty but small and pricy piece of salmon (3 COWS), while Keith ordered a Ruben (2-1/2 COWs). Both were accompanied by somewhat soggy fries, Keith’s at extra cost. We came back to the camper about 7:30, and immediately went to bed. Tomorrow we are going to Diamond Tooth Gerties for the show. Gerties is an old time saloon/gambling hall/girlie show, where Kathy can gamble and Keith can gawk.

Don’t touch that dial!